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Norfolk Island's Reef

Discover a fragile paradise – Norfolk Island's beaches, lagoons and coral reef
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Out on A Swim

‘Out on a swim’ is a coral reef blog that tells the stories of the characters who live under the waves and what has caught my eye when ‘out on a swim’ in the lagoons of Norfolk Island. It is also a record of the difficulties Norfolk Island’s reef faces, like many others around the world, as a result of the poor water quality that has been allowed to flow onto it.

This blog is rated in the Top 20 Coral Reef Blogs in the world.

Lone Pine photographed from Emily Bay, showing the freshwater layer caused by innundation from the creek.

A Year in Review – 2022 on Norfolk Island's Reef

December 31, 2022

It’s always a good time to take stock of the year that was, so I’ve been thinking about what 2022 held for me. On a personal and professional level, it was great – doing a job I love with enough work–life balance stirred into the pot for good measure.

But for Norfolk Island’s reef, I really can’t say the same. La Niña superimposed on La Niña has meant copious rainfall and a lagoon under stress: more algae, more coral disease, fewer fish. Here’s a very brief run down of what has been happening on Norfolk Island’s forgotten reef during 2022.

View fullsize Screenshot 2022-12-30 182035.png
View fullsize NIRC social media posts, December 2022
NIRC social media posts, December 2022
  • A year ago I reported on the increase of an algae known as Lyngbya majuscule and the furry little sea hares that feed on them. I wrote about this in the blog post ‘Furry Sea Hares as Eco-warriors’. Here we are a year later and Norfolk Island Regional Council, in association with Norfolk Island National Park, has had to issue warnings about not ‘interacting’ with this particularly nasty alga, because, yet again, it is proliferating in our bay (see social media posts, above).

  • During the warmer months at the beginning of 2022, we had several algal-bloom events in the water column in Emily Bay. In December 2022, we experienced the first one for this summer season. If you’ve never swum through one of these, imagine swimming through pea soup. It isn’t pleasant. And it is definitely not healthy for the reef.

  • In February and March 2022, we had another algae sweep across our corals. This time it was a thick choking red mat of cyanobacteria. To say this was heartbreaking is an understatement. I talk about this particular horror in a blogpost called ‘Come on in. The Water’s Fine’.

  • An alarming drop in sea cucumber and sea urchin numbers was noted by myself and other snorkellers, and by the team of reef researchers to the island. These animals are essential to a balanced ecosystem. If too many are removed, or if they fail to thrive, that is not good. You can see my two blog posts on these two critters here: ‘The Importance of Sea Urchins’ and ‘Heroes of the Beach – Sea Cucumbers’.

  • Then we had the heartbreaking case of Doris, the green sea turtle. Emaciated, covered in algae and clearly very weak, she was rescued by a group of us and has been in the care of volunteers and staff at the National Parks office since. Hopefully, 2023 will see her return, but to what? You can find out more about her story here ‘#OperationDoris Green Sea Turtle Rescue’, or search for the hashtag #operationdoris.

  • Sea squirts have been increasing across the lagoonal area. Is this relevant? Is it significant? I don’t know, but there are a lot of them encrusting corals where there were very few previously. I wrote about these here in ‘Sea Squirts – Friend or Foe’.

  • The researchers who give us the science about what is happening on our reef are quite clear and unequivocal in their assessment: In an article in the Sydney Morning Herald on 20 November 2022, Dr Trace Ainsworth says, ‘the rate of diseased coral in Norfolk Island’s lagoonal reef [i]s now among the highest recorded on an Australian reef.’ You can read more about what the experts say in ‘Norfolk Island’s Forgotten Reef Needs Help’.

Is there any good news?

Well, yes, there is. But it’s a bit like the proverbial curate’s egg. With the good also comes the bad. Professor Andrew Baird, chief investigator at the former ARC Centre of Excellence for Coral Reef Studies, estimates that at least 30 per cent of the coral species documented on Norfolk Island are undescribed, thus unknown to science. In other words, a third of our corals could be unique. The downside of that is that we could lose them before we even understand what we have.

View fullsize Lyngbya majuscule on what was formerly coral reef
Lyngbya majuscule on what was formerly coral reef
View fullsize Algal bloom, Emily Bay, 20 March 2022
Algal bloom, Emily Bay, 20 March 2022
View fullsize Cyanobacterial mat pulled off the reef, 18 February 2022
Cyanobacterial mat pulled off the reef, 18 February 2022
View fullsize Tunicates growing on dead coral, 3 September 2022
Tunicates growing on dead coral, 3 September 2022
View fullsize Tunicates, 9 September 2022
Tunicates, 9 September 2022
View fullsize Doris, a green sea turtle, 10 September 2022
Doris, a green sea turtle, 10 September 2022

I have been raising the matter of our reef with politicians and the government for nearly three years now. In that time, the reef has deteriorated and some beautiful corals have succumbed to disease.

Those who frequent the bays are asking each other, where are all the fish? I am finding it increasingly hard to take decent photographs of some fish because they simply aren’t there anymore or are difficult to find. Here’s is a quick anecdotal assessment:

  • The bait balls (small juveniles or fry) have been missing in action inside the lagoons this year.

  • Beneath the raft, once a nursery for all kinds of species, is barren, partly due to Council’s new, improved design, but is there another reason?

  • The bluespine unicornfish have gone from four adults to one (plus one ‘teenager’ and a few babies).

  • The pencil surgeonfish have reduced from a small school of eight or nine individuals to two.

  • The catfish seem to be staying outside the reef more than they are inside.

  • The schools of mullet are much smaller.

  • The busily voracious schools of elegant wrasse are noticeably smaller, too.

  • The small family groups of three and four bluespotted cornetfish are reduced to one or, if you are lucky, two individuals inside the reef.

  • I last saw a Norfolk Island blenny (only found here on Norfolk Island) in April 2022.

  • I saw my first leopard flounder since March 2022 a week ago.

  • Yellowstriped goatfish, cardinal goatfish and blacksaddle goatfish? All reduced in numbers.

I could go on, but I won’t bore you.

Will I be writing in another year’s time that our reef has gone past the point of no return? I sincerely hope not. Let’s hope that 2023 is a much better year for Norfolk Island’s reef.

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Featured
Glimpses of recovery: what the reef could be if we let it
Jun 13, 2025
Glimpses of recovery: what the reef could be if we let it
Jun 13, 2025

Day 6 of this photo series from Norfolk Island coincides with the final day of the UN Ocean Conference in Nice. After a week of documenting decline, today’s post offers a different view – what reef recovery can look like when conditions improve. Drought in 2024 gave the reef a break, and the results were unmistakable: healthier corals, lower disease, and more fish. This is what’s possible if we act.

Jun 13, 2025
Warning signs: quiet and unnoticed collapse of two coral colonies
Jun 12, 2025
Warning signs: quiet and unnoticed collapse of two coral colonies
Jun 12, 2025

Day 5 of my blog series for the UN Ocean Conference: two long-lived coral colonies in Norfolk’s lagoon died quietly from disease. No drama – just slow collapse and overgrowth by algae. A reminder that not all reef losses are loud, but they are happening.

Jun 12, 2025
Warning signs:  what Norfolk Island’s reef is telling us
Jun 11, 2025
Warning signs: what Norfolk Island’s reef is telling us
Jun 11, 2025

Day 4 of a week-long photo series from Norfolk Island, shared during the UN Ocean Conference in Nice. Today’s post spotlights a Hydnophora pilosa colony where white syndrome appeared suddenly and spread quickly, taking out around a quarter of the coral. In the months that followed, algae quietly filled the gap – a subtle but telling shift from coral to algae that’s happening across the reef.

Jun 11, 2025
Warning signs: coral disease takes hold
Jun 10, 2025
Warning signs: coral disease takes hold
Jun 10, 2025

In Day 3 of this blog post series, published while leaders gather at the UN Ocean Conference in Nice, we see Norfolk Island’s coral reef lagoon quietly delivering a stark warning: recurrent land-based pollution, coral disease, and delayed decisions are dismantling this ecosystem in real time.

Jun 10, 2025
Warning signs: coral growth anomalies – the slow cancers of the reef
Jun 9, 2025
Warning signs: coral growth anomalies – the slow cancers of the reef
Jun 9, 2025

Day 2’s post coinciding with the UN Ocean Conference looks at coral growth anomalies – sometimes called coral ‘cancers’. These slow-moving diseases quietly weaken coral colonies, making them far more vulnerable to storm damage and algal takeover. On Norfolk Island’s reef, I’ve watched this exact process play out over several years. This is how chronic stress silently dismantles coral ecosystems.

Jun 9, 2025
Warning signs: shifting baselines on Norfolk Island’s reef
Jun 8, 2025
Warning signs: shifting baselines on Norfolk Island’s reef
Jun 8, 2025

Today is World Ocean Day — a timely moment to launch my week-long blog series on Norfolk Island’s reef. Each day this week, I’ll be sharing photo essays that document the slow but steady pressures reshaping this fragile reef. Today: how shifting baselines make us blind to what we’ve already lost.

Jun 8, 2025
The Governance–Government Vacuum: Norfolk Island’s Forgotten Ecology
Apr 29, 2025
The Governance–Government Vacuum: Norfolk Island’s Forgotten Ecology
Apr 29, 2025

A personal reflection on Norfolk Island’s coral reef environment, political denial, and what John Wyndham’s The Kraken Wakes can still teach us about slow-moving disasters — and why this election matters more than ever.

Apr 29, 2025
Cute as buttons – Astrea curta
Feb 20, 2025
Cute as buttons – Astrea curta
Feb 20, 2025

Astrea curta corals are ‘small, moderately plocoid [flattened], distinct, and almost circular’ . Normally grey-green in colour, you can see from the images here, ours are often beautiful rich gold, although they do vary. They have a neat growth habit and button-like corallites, which can grow in columns, spherically or flattened. Large colonies of these can form gorgeous undulating bumps.

Feb 20, 2025
From 'Watch' to 'Warning'
Jan 26, 2025
From 'Watch' to 'Warning'
Jan 26, 2025

Last week, the chance of coral bleaching in Norfolk Island’s inshore lagoons was raised from ‘Watch’ to ‘Warning’ and will more than likely rise to Alert levels one and two in coming weeks. So why do I worry about water quality all the time when bleaching seems inevitable these days and so the reef is probably doomed anyway? Read on to find out.

Jan 26, 2025
From little things – watching them grow
Jan 4, 2025
From little things – watching them grow
Jan 4, 2025

Small numbers of different fish species is not an unusual phenomenon on Norfolk Island’s reef, but it does demonstrate what a tiny, precious, coral reef ecosystem we have, when we can count individuals on one hand and watch each of them grow, like these little blackeye thicklips, a member of the wrasse family.

Jan 4, 2025

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